Receding Glaciers

Bleary eyed, one morning, I read a news item about how the glaciers up in the Himalayas were receding and reducing in size. That due to global temperature changes it was snowing less in the upper reaches.

I wondered if the trek to Pindari Glacier (situated between the snowcapped Nanda Devi and Nandakot Himalayan peaks) I had undertaken 17 years back had increased by a km or so! How much would that really matter in the 94 km round trek through forests, meadows, makeshift wooden bridges over gushing rivers, verdant valleys, narrow trails cut out on cliffsides, treacherous snow bridges, freezing temperatures, icy winds and sudden rains? That km right before the Pindari Glacier (from where the Pindar River originates ultimately to merge with the holy Ganges) let me tell you would be the toughest. It is the last mile which kills you. But the feeling of triumph is phenomenal. As also the pristine feeling of tranquility and spirituality which envelops you.

Well coming down to less ambitious thoughts, the flip side of the weather this winter was that the offbeat hills of Kumaon like Mukteshwar and Binsar would not be snowbound. This gave me an opportunity (trust us to be grab opportunists in the new economy, damned be all else) to drive up there. From Binsar, you get a spectacular 300 km view of the Himalayan Ranges.

The place to stay is within The Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary and not the lower or peripheral areas. The denudation of the Binsar Forest was halted by the notification of Binsar as a sanctuary in 1988 under the Wildlife Protection Act. Mukti Datta was instrumental in this declaration as well as the setting up of the Panchachuli Women's Weavers Association. Panchachuli Women Weavers is a development programme, which facilitates economic and social independence for women in the Indian Himalayas using the traditional arts of weaving and knitting.

The Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary encompasses an area of about 50 square kms. The locals insist that the trails leading through the dense forests are filled with over 200 species of resident and migratory birds and wildlife such as leopard, barking deer, ghoral, wild boar, fox, porcupines and langurs. At times wildlife is said to be spotted though we did not come across any except some black langurs - we moved on giving each other due respect.

Grand Oak Manor, a double storeyed, white pillared edifice, in the middle of the forest still does not boast of regular electricity. However, this is generated by two captive generators, which run on fixed times. Central heating is ingeniously provided by air blowers heated by circulating hot water. So, if you are prepared for stumbling around the dark in your room after 'lights out' and are prepared to rush (dropping whatever you may be doing, even if it is doing nothing) and charge your digicams, ipods, laptops and cellphones when the generator is running or better still are prepared to forget all these gizmos which anyway have been holding you prisoner in the city, then you will revel in the experience which this place will give you.

We got up early and saw one of the most amazing sunrises; the sky - an artist's palette - changing colours from grey to orange to azure. I got some great shots of the sky and one particularly of the sunrays glinting through a stark walnut tree with a crumbling cottage in ruins in the foreground as the myriad hues spread across the sky, swirls of mist still down in the valley. To the north, the Himalayan ranges started shrouding off their cover, to emerge romantically golden, never losing their magic to one's eyes however many a time may one have seen the spectacle unfolding in the pristine environs. Aah, the magnificence of the Himalayas and creation's unparalleled beauty propels you towards soothing tranquility. We did not need to close our eyes, think of happy events, focus on our third eye, inhale and exhale deeply, remember our spiritual guru's dictates to do a mandatory 30 minute meditation routine to reduce stress, anger and aggression.

It was all happening naturally, as The Creator had meant it to be. Eyes wide open unable to take in all that was on offer. Pure mountain air coursing through our body smoothly. Time at a standstill. Our being getting transformed into an ego-less self effortlessly. Humility transcending through us naturally as we stood - non entities in front of the majestic mountains, all encompassing forest and undulating valleys.

As we hiked through the forest upto the Jhandi Dhar hilltop for even better Himalayan views, a point and shoot got me an amazing photograph, the dappled sunlight on the leaves strewn jungle path almost turned me into a poet, the sheer magic of colours seemingly inspired me to want to do a Van Gogh, the serenity as if was propelling me to delve deeper into the ancient philosophies. If a mediocre being like me was getting so effected, no wonder these hills at one time were such huge inspirations to evolved personalities like Tagore, Bapu and Vijaylakshmi Pandit.

The three days we were at Binsar were filled with myriad experiences, overwhelming feelings, resurging realisation of the simplicity of village life and the naivety of rural folk, a rediscovery of the mesmerizing splendour of nature.

Back in Delhi, the magic has still not worn off.